I’ve worked with all levels of projects and when push comes to shove I go for the straightforward. Our dining table is one that we built several years ago and I shared in an updated TUTORIAL.
We scored the base that is from a Pottery Barn farmhouse table at a yard sale a long time back. The top had a lacquered ugly yellow finish that was really thick and the table was too small. Off came the base and we used it to build a new tabletop on. The base and legs were already painted in the creamy white that is still on it, so we didn’t do a thing with that.
I love the farmhouse look of the top that we built, stained and waxed, but it has been calling my name to lighten up for a long time!
Can you whitewash over varnished wood?
The short answer is no. The varnish won’t apply the other paints to adhere to the wood and this is going to cause a problem later on. If you have a varnished wood table, you’re going to want to use another method of painting over it or try to remove the varnish beforehand.
Do I need to sand before whitewashing?
Nope, you don’t have to at all. People do because they think that it adheres better but I didn’t do it with mine and it worked out perfectly.
How long will whitewash last?
This is just another reason why I love whitewash paint. If you take good care of the surface and area that it’s painted on, it’s going to last you for a really long time.
Do you prime before whitewashing?
This all just depends on how you want your washed wood furniture to look. If you want it to look rustic or to have that farmhouse feel, you really don’t have to add a primer. But if you’re wanting it to look more solid, then you could but it’s totally up to you.
How do you get whitewash stains off the floor?
If you find that you’ve dropped some of the paint on the floor during your project, there are ways that you can get it off without worry. Warm water and dish soap can help to get a lot of it off and if it lands on a hard surface, you just need to let it dry and scrape off or try and peel it off.
Whitewashing A Farmhouse Table In 30 Minutes
How To Easily Whitewash Furniture
- Grab a paintbrush and my favorite white acrylic paint. I would NOT recommend using oil based paint! You would have to thin it out with mineral spirits and it’s toxic.
- Water down the paint in a small manageable bucket like a used large plastic yogurt container. For this table I mixed about 2/3 paint to 1/3 water. This table had an original wax finish but I didn’t think that it was necessary to sand it off. To be on the safe side you certainly can give it a light sanding first if preferred.
- Start painting little by little in the direction of the grain of the boards on the FARMHOUSE TABLE. Use the same technique if your tabletop is one solid piece of wood or veneered.
- Paint a small area at a time and before the paint dries have a damp rag on hand and wipe the painted finish you just applied down until it looks like a wash. You may have to repeat in some areas if you’ve wiped off too much.
Furniture Wax With A Whitewashing Technique
Here is the finished table and it really took me maybe 20 minutes to do. I’m going to let it cure for a day or two and then give it another coat of wax with my FAVORITE WAX. I’ve been using the wax for years and it’s the BEST!
SO EASY!
I can’t wait to set the table for some fun posts to share coming your way soon!
Do you have a piece of furniture that you would like to lighten up by whitewashing? Let me know if you have any questions!
This looks great. Is it possible to do this on already whitewashed furniture that just needs a touch up?
What did you use for the paint? You noted you grabbed a brush and your favorite acrylic paint but I wasn’t sure what paint you meant. I have a friend who wants me to white wash a credenza for her and this is the look she wants. Thanks for any info!
Hi Michelle. I linked the paint that I used within the post, so if you click on that you’ll see the specifics. It’s my favorite for lots of projects!
Could you seal it with poly acrylic instead of wax?
Hi Jena…I think that you could, but I like the look of wax and haven’t tried it. Maybe do a small underside test area first?
What kind of wax do you use?
Hi Debby! The wax that I always use is linked in the instructions in the post. Have a great day!
I’m excited to try this for a desk. Right now the poplar wood is completely raw. Do I need to finish in any way before whitewashing it?
The wax you mentioned was to finish it after the white washing process, yes?
Thanks so much!
Every wood is going to absorb things differently Mia, so if it were me I’d try it on a small inconspicuous area first. Yes, waxing would be last and with raw wood you might need a few coats.
You said you used acrylic paint but the link to the rustoleum is LATEX paint.
It is water based and not oil based paint. Cleans up with soap and water and can be diluted. Check the Amazon questions and answers and thanks for stopping by.
Hi , Can you do a whitewash finish in a cream paint with more beige tones? If yes what BM Color works well for this? Thank you. Gayle
I’m not a beige lover personally, but I do love the Rustoleum brand American Heirloom color paint (comes in a spray AND a can).
Hi Janet,
Have you ever whitewashed with Rustoleum Champagne metallic paint? It is water based too. Would love to see results!
Thanks! I just asked another question about Rustoleum Metallic in Champagne! ???
What is the best type of sealant for a dining room table that I just white washed? I know you mentioned wax but does it hold up over time vs Polyacrylic?
Lexi…just catching up here and wanted to answer you. I prefer wax and not a sealer personally, and it does hold up beautifully in my experience. Just maybe give it another coat of wax every couple of years if necessary.
Did you have to do anything to prep the wood in advance? Sanding, deglosser, liquid sanding? I have a credenza made of pine with great knots and wood grain but it’s stained in a glossy dark brown. I think a whitewash would be perfect for lightening it up, but I’m not sure what to do to prep the wood.
Hi Liz. I would give it a light sanding just to be on the safe side. Then wipe it down with a cheesecloth or better yet…a tack cloth. Good luck with your project!
Hi. This is an older post, so I am hoping you see this. I found you bc I was looking for a pretty easy approach to a table I just bought, but it’s a little darker than it was in the pictures. It’s antique and so it’s porous enough that I think I can just do paint and water, maybe a little glaze and rub on, rub off. The reason I want to rub some lighter pigment in is bc it’s a little more of a ‘red/cherry/mahogany’ stain and I want a more neutral color, ideally. Have you had any luck taking ‘red’ stains’ down a notch or two with white wash? I have used that ‘arid plains’ + Glaze recipe on lighter wood and gotten amazing results. If worse comes to worse, I can paint this table, it’s pretty gorgeous no matter what. Just hoping you might have tried this already.
Hi Danni. The problem with wood finishes that have a red base is bleed through. Sounds like you already know this, but if you want to give the whitewashing a shot I would give it a sanding first. My gut feeling is that it will need to be sealed with Kilz and then painted, but worth trying.
I purchased a second-hand table on a single pedestal. I’m pretty sure the table top is made of poplar and the pedestal made of elm. It was described as Antique Whitewash. However, the pedestal is lighter than the table top. I wanted to lighten the grey looking poplar table top, to restore the whitewash look. The table top feels and looks like raw wood and very porous. Any suggestions please?
I would suggest turning the table over and trying the process first on the underside…if at all possible. See if it works out for you.
I think i’m going to try this on my table this weekend. Thank you so much for the idea. I have been looking to do this for a while just dont like the long process ideas. I would love more ideas like this as well
Hope that it worked out for you and I’m impatient with some processes as well!